Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Zocalo, Aztec Shamans and Diego Rivera

The Metro system proved to be fairly easy to navigate. I had to take four different lines to get to my hostel this morning, but I did it without problem. The only snag was when I was trying to get on the pink line, I had to wait for about 20 trains to go because they were so packed, that every time they stopped about 10 people tried to get in each set of doors, while only usually 3 succeeded. I knew it would be a real pain in the ass to try with my large backpack, so I waited for the rush hour to die down a bit.

I came out of the Metro station at the Zocalo in the Centro Historico, with the Palacio Nacional on one side and the Metropolitan Cathedral on the other side. It was quite a site. I quickly found my hostel adjecent to the Cathedral and retired to my room for some much needed rest (I only got about 2 hours of sleep on the plane). After the restorative nap and a lunch, I hit the pavement. I am really impressed with Mexico City so far. I had heard it was a dump and not worth the time spent there. But I've found it an incredibly vibrant city with people, markets and bustle in every direction. Sure it stinks and there's some trash on the streets. But hey, it's a city... one of the biggest in the world. The street performers at the Zocalo are entertaining, doing mimes and other audience participation games. My favorites are the Aztec "Shamans" who offer to cleanse you of evil spirits with their incense and tinctures. Acutally, I'm quite amazed how prevalent the noble Aztec facial features are among the general populace. It's hard not imagine some of the men in ceremonial headresses and Moctezuma-style priestly robes, rather than business attire, so like the archetypal Aztecs they look.

The architecture in the historic district is amazing, all weathered colonial facades and gothic statuary. As often as not, the beautiful buildings are practically covered with lean-to stalls selling all manner of worthless junk, but somehow the anachronistic juxtaposition just adds to the feel that this is a living, breathing city.

There is a Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera exhibition going on at the Colegio de San Idefonso (where some of Orozco and Rivera's most famous murals adorn the walls). I tried to get in but the line was too long, so I'm going to try again in the morning. I did get to see the murals though, which are amazing. I took several pictures, but due to the ban on flashes, I'm not sure if they will turn out. I combed the gift shop hoping to find some Frida Kahlo art temporary tattoos, but alas, they had none (sorry Endrik and Annie).

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